Pet Training Now

The moment has come…you’ve gotten a new puppy! Getting a puppy is both exciting and nervewracking. Exciting because it’s so much fun to watch them grow. Nervewracking because of the potty training, teething and training that needs to occur. Yet another mystery that will remain unanswered until the puppy grows is how big will puppy get? To determine how big your puppy will be, there are several items to consider.

If your puppy is a purebred, what breed is it? If it’s a Beagle, for example, your puppy will remain fairly small…topping out at about 15 inches at the withers. However, if your puppy is a Great Dane, you will have a rather large dog on your hands, topping out at about 28 inches or so. Keep in mind, even though you have a purebred puppy, while it’s a bit easier to determine how big puppy will get, it’s not always a given. For example, if you have the runt of the litter, this puppy may not grow to be as big as the breed standard dictates it should.

If your puppy is a mixed breed or mutt, you’ll have to play a guessing game to determine how big your puppy will get. One thing you can do is take a look at the paws. If, as a puppy, the paws seem to be somewhat oversized for it’s body, it will most likely be a medium to large sized dog. If the paws seem to be in proportion to the rest of it’s body, it will most likely be on the small side.

Another method you can use to answer the question, “how big will puppy get?” for mixed breed dogs is to try and determine the puppy’s heritage. If the puppy is a mix between a Labrador Retriever and a Standard Poodle (otherwise known as a Labradoodle) you can imagine that the puppy will grow into a large dog. Conversely, if you puppy is a mix between a Westie and a Yorkie, you can bet that the puppy will grow into a very small dog, weighing 10 pounds tops.

Once you get an idea as to the height of your puppy, another part of the “how big will puppy get” question revolves around weight. Typically the smaller the dog, the less they weigh…unless you have a Bassett Hound. Bassett Hounds are relatively low to the ground, but tend to weigh upwards of 60 pounds. On the flip side, you have Greyhounds. These puppies grow into very tall dogs, yet they too weigh only 60 pounds.

As you can sse, there are many variables to consider when trying to figure out how big your puppy will get. To have an idea of the height or weight of your puppy, it’s best to do some research beforehand. That way, when you are asked the “how big will puppy get” question, you’ll have a fairly educated guess.

Many people feel it is cruel to crate a puppy or a dog. All those negative associations about cages and zoos and such. I was under that impression myself when I was convinced, by my sister 6 years ago, that it was one of the most valuable things that my new puppy could learn. It keeps the puppy safe from chewing things like electrical cords and your new shoes when you cannot be around to supervise. It can be considered the same as a playpen for a baby. It is also an invaluable tool in housetraining a puppy. Puppies learn from their mother that they shouldn’t soil their sleeping area. When they are still in the whelping box, the puppies will crawl away from their sleeping area to an area they chose as the potty area, and eliminate there. They are already innately trained not to soil the area where they sleep.

Using the Dog’s Natural Denning Instinct
First, let’s look at dog behavior in the wild. Wild adult dogs will naturally find a den or safe area to sleep. When the dam whelps the pups in the wild she sets up a den and keeps it clean until the pups are old enough to go outside on their own. She teaches them it is not okay to potty in the place where they sleep. Domestic dogs will also naturally den. You will often see a dog sleeping under a table or desk or next to a piece of furniture if no other area is provided for them to den. It is not cruel to develop this habit from the time you bring the puppy home. In fact, it is cruel not to give the pup or dog a safe area they can call their own.

Setting The Rules From The Beginning
If your puppy whines when you first put him in his crate it is probably because he would rather be snuggled up close to you the way he was with his littermates. If you allow the puppy access to your lap, bed, couch or chair when you first get the puppy then it will be harder to eliminate these behaviors as the puppy grows up. Think of what the adult size of your dog will be and decide if you have room in your lap, bed, etc. for the adult dog. You must decide before you bring the puppy home what the “rules” will be and then stick to them.

Help From The Breeder
If you’re lucky, the breeder has begun to crate train the puppies while they are still in the whelping box by providing a crate for them to sleep in. If this is the case, then all you have to do is to allow the puppy to get used to it’s new crate, it’s smells and your home and your job will go much faster. If possible, get a familiar piece of bedding from the breeder, one which has the smells of the litter on it. Place this in the crate along with the other pads or towels. This will help the puppy feel at home. You can return this to the breeder once the puppy is used to his new home.

POSITIVE ASSOCIATIONS

Crate training should all be done positively with no negative associations. When you first bring the puppy home from the breeder, have the crate ready and comfortable for the puppy. I put a towel or a washable pad in the crate, possibly a pillow so it is an inviting area for the puppy. (My dogs crates are as comfortable and inviting as my own bed!) I get a small yummy treat (small piece of raw hot dog works well) and allow the puppy to sniff it and then lure the puppy into the crate with the treat. When the puppy goes into the crate to get the treat and explore the new area I just leave the door open and let him come out as he wishes. I don’t force the pup into the crate and I don’t make him stay in there the first several times. I then repeat putting a treat in the crate, allowing the puppy to go in on his own for the treat. I do this several times and praise the puppy gently while it’s in the crate and associate a word or phrase for going in the crate. My word association is “kennel up”. I use the word association AS I’m putting the treat into the crate and the puppy is following it in. Do this about five times and then quit for awhile. Repeat this procedure several times the first day.

Closing The Crate Door
When the puppy is going in after the treat comfortably and when the puppy has just finished playing and piddling and is tired, lure the puppy into the crate with the treat as you have before only this time close the door. I also put a new toy in the crate at this time. Something the puppy hasn’t seen before and something that is interesting and will keep his attention for a few minutes. After I close the door, I sit on the floor in front of the crate and talk to the puppy if necessary. If the puppy cries or whines, I put my fingers through the grate in the door to reassure the puppy that I am still there. Usually, they will only whine for a short while and may even fall asleep if they are tired. I stay there until the whining subsides and the puppy calms down and then open the crate door. 5-10 minutes usually. If the puppy happens to fall asleep, great! I let him sleep in the crate until he wakes up and then it’s right outside to go potty. I don’t use much of praise and fanfare when I open the crate door and I ignore the puppy for a few minutes after he is out so that he doesn’t get the impression that getting out is much more fun than being in the crate. I do not let the puppy out of the crate until he is quiet for at least 30 seconds and has calmed down if he has been whining. I might try and distract him with another toy to give him a chance to be quiet so I can let him out while he is quiet but I WILL NOT let him out, especially the first time, until he IS quiet. I don’t yell or correct in any negative way. I just make up my mind that I will calmly wait the puppy out no matter what.

The First Night At Home
If you have gotten your puppy during the day and had time to do the above steps, great! The puppy will already be familiar with going in the crate after a treat. If not, and you want to begin the puppy’s life at his new home sleeping in a crate here’s what to do. I play with the puppy till he’s tired, make sure he has pottied outside and place the comfortable crate (with pad and towels etc.) on a chair or table right next to my bed where I can reach it while I’m still lying down. My night stand is set up for this purpose. I remove any collar that might be unsafe, place or lure the tired puppy into the crate (possibly with a safe toy) go to bed and turn out the lights as usual. If the puppy whines, I place my fingers in the grate of the crate and talk softly to the puppy until he falls asleep. I may lose a little sleep that night and possibly the next but I will NOT open the door for the puppy for at least four hours. (I repeat: the puppy has successfully pottied just before this!). I do not get angry with the puppy or yell at him but I do not give in and let him out either. If the crate is comfortable and warm enough, the lights are out and you are right there to talk softly to him and let him lick your fingers, then usually he will fall asleep within an hour, less if he is tired. At eight weeks of age you cannot expect the puppy to go more than four hours without pottying. So, as soon as the puppy whines after waking up, have your sweats, shoes and shirt ready to take the puppy outside. Dress yourself quickly before you open the crate, carry the puppy to the potty area immediately, praise softly and gently for a job well done, bring him back in and without getting into a play session with him, return the puppy to his crate, turn the lights out and go back to sleep. If the puppy fusses for awhile, talk softly and put your fingers in the grate of the crate. Two or three nights of this at the most and your puppy will be used to the routine. If you happen to sleep through the puppy whining and he is forced to potty in his crate because he can’t hold it, don’t blame or scold the puppy. It is your responsibility to get the puppy out BEFORE he has had a chance soil his den. Clean it up using a urine neutralizer (I use a light vinegar and water mix) put clean towels or pads in the crate and return to your routine. Set an alarm clock if you have to. The crate should not be too big for the pup, otherwise there will be enough room for the puppy to soil in it’s crate and not think about it as soiling his sleeping area. Later on, after the puppy is used to it’s routine and after he no longer needs to go out every four hours, you can put the crate on the floor of your bedroom or somewhere else in the house.

Crating When You Leave The House
At some point you have to go to work or go out somewhere and can’t take the puppy. He’s made it through his first day and night at his new home. He is familiar with his crate and it does not have any unpleasant associations linked to it. Make sure the pup has been exercised and has pottied. It is helpful if he has played a bit and is tired. Take off his collar and remove any unsafe toys that may be in the crate, lure him into the crate with a treat and your association word or physically place the puppy into the crate gently. Close the door and leave the house without further ado. No talking to him etc. He may whine a little. You might have to explain to your neighbors that you are crate training your new puppy to keep him safe from chewing things like electrical cords and your new shoes while you are away and so he will develop good potty habits. Explain that he may whine for a little while after you leave. Hopefully they will understand. Don’t stay away too long. An hour or two, is optimal. If you have to go to work and have no other choice, then arrange to come home at lunch to feed, exercise and potty the puppy during your break or have someone else come in and do this for you. A puppy cannot be expected to go longer than four hours without a potty break and it is very hard to retrain a puppy that is used to soiling his crate.

A Place To Get Away From It All
After the puppy has grown a bit and is used to being put into his crate when you leave and at night when you sleep, you will see something interesting happen. When the puppy is tired and wants some time alone, possibly away from the children (who should not be allowed access to the puppy’s crate for play purposes) he will go to his crate and curl up and go to sleep. I leave the doors of my crates open and my dogs frequently go there to take a nap on their own volition.

OTHER REASONS TO CRATE TRAIN EARLY

Flying
Suppose you have to fly your dog on a plane. They must be crated for this. Flying is stressful enough for the dog who is already crate trained but add the stress of never having been in a crate to a dog who has to fly for the first time. Can you see a reason for the dog to be used to a crate?

Boarding
What if you have to go out of town and need to leave the dog in a boarding kennel? A crate trained dog will understand and adapt to this situation easily. Usually, you can bring the dog’s own crate with you to the kennel and allow the dog some comfort in having his own bed to sleep in.

Crating In The Car
Keeping the puppy/dog safe in the car is another reason to crate train. Nobody likes to think of what would happen if they were in a car accident. Car doors can fly open and the dog, if uncrated, stands a good chance of leaping out into traffic and getting hit by a car or running off because they are scared. If you have your dog crated in the car when in an accident the dog may get banged around but the crate will most likely protect the dog from being hit, may help contain the dog in the car itself, and will keep him from being lost if the car doors fly open even if the crate is expelled from the car. If you are hurt in the accident the emergency services people are more likely keep your dog safe and contained if the dog is in a crate and they can easily transport the dog to a safe area.

Crating Adult Dogs
Although it is probably easier to crate train when the puppy is young, you can still train the adult dog to accept the crate. Use a treat or favorite toy and lure him into the crate with the door open, same as I explained for the puppy. Keep doing this until the dog will readily go into the crate for a treat on his own. After the dog will readily go into the crate for a treat or toy make the dog lie down in the crate with you sitting on the floor in front of the crate just for a few seconds and then let him come out. Keep this up for several days or a week, as long as it takes for the dog to become comfortable with lying down in the crate. When the dog seems comfortable lying down, close the door for a minute or two, and stay there to talk to the dog same as we did above with the puppy. When the dog has been quiet for a few seconds, open the door and let the dog come out and ignore him for a minute or two so that coming out isn’t associated with a lot of praise. The idea is to praise gently and quietly WHILE THE DOG IS IN THE CRATE and ignore him for a few minutes when he comes out. Keep doing this without any negative associations until he’s comfortable in the crate for longer periods of time. Most dogs can be crate trained using this method no matter how old they are. Keep it positive but don’t give in either. Try and build up time gradually, if you can. If you need to crate train your dog to fly, try and give yourself as much time as possible. A month or more is optimal. If you don’t have that much time, try to do as many repetitions as you can during the time you have. Wait an hour or so in between training sessions. The more repetitions you can do without stressing out the dog and maintaining positive associations the better. Quit if the dog or you are getting stressed.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), a federal agency which monitors and controls human diseases, estimates over 4.7 million people are bitten per year. This is approximately 2 percent of the U.S. population. Ten to twenty people die each year from injuries resulting from dog bites. Most of these victims are children.

In addition to physical injuries, people, especially children, can be emotionally scarred as well. It is sad, indeed, when a person who has suffered a dog bite can no longer feel comfortable around animals, and may in fact, be terrified of them. Such people lose a wonderful aspect of their lives and a chance to have a meaningful human-animal bond.

Reduce the risk of your dog biting

There is no way to guarantee that your dog will never bite someone. But you can significantly reduce the risk if you:

• Spay or neuter your dog. This will reduce your dog’s desire to roam and fight with other dogs. Spayed or neutered dogs are three times less likely to bite than intact dogs.
• Socialize your dog. Introduce your dog to many different types of people and situations so that he or she is not nervous or frightened under normal social circumstances.
• Train your dog. Participating in puppy socialization and dog training classes is an excellent way to help you and your dog learn good obedience skills. Training your dog is a family matter, and every member of your household should be involved and use the same training techniques.
• Teach your dog appropriate behavior. Avoid playing aggressive games with your dog such as wrestling, tug-of-war, or ’siccing’ your dog on another person. Do not allow your puppy to bite or chew on your hands. Set appropriate limits for your dog’s behavior. Do not wait for an unacceptable behavior to become a bad habit, or believe your dog will ‘grow out of it.’ If your dog exhibits dangerous behavior toward any person, particularly toward children, seek professional help from your veterinarian, an animal behaviorist, or a qualified dog trainer. Your community animal care and control agency or humane society may also offer helpful services. Dangerous behavior toward other animals may eventually lead to dangerous behavior toward people, and is also a reason to seek professional help.
• Be a responsible dog owner. Obtain a license for your dog as required by law, and provide regular veterinary care, including rabies vaccinations. For everyone’s safety, do not allow your dog to roam. Make your dog a member of your family. Dogs who spend a great deal of time alone in the backyard or tied out on a chain are more likely to become dangerous. Dogs who are well-socialized and supervised rarely bite.
• Err on the safe side. If you do not know how your dog will react to a new situation, be cautious. If your dog may panic in crowds, leave him at home. If your dog overreacts to visitors or delivery or service personnel, keep him in another room. Work with professionals to help your dog become accustomed to these and other situations. Until you are confident of his behavior, however, avoid stressful settings.

If your dog would bite a person:

• Confine your dog immediately.
• Check on the victim’s condition. If necessary, seek medical help.
• Provide the victim with important information. This should include your name and address, name of the dog, the date of your dog’s last rabies vaccination, and the name and phone number of your veterinarian.
• Cooperate with the animal control official responsible for acquiring information about your dog. If your dog must be quarantined for any length of time, ask whether he may be confined within your home or at your veterinarian’s hospital (this is usually determined by the dog’s rabies vaccination status). Strictly follow quarantine requirements for your dog.
• Seek professional help to prevent your dog from biting again. Consult with your veterinarian, who may refer you to an animal behaviorist or a dog trainer.
• Do not just give your dog to someone else if your dog’s dangerous behavior cannot be controlled. Because you know your dog is dangerous, you may be held liable for any damage he does even when he is given to someone else. Do not give your dog to someone who wants a dangerous dog. If you must give up your dog due to dangerous behavior, consult with your veterinarian and with your local animal care and control agency or humane society about your options. New owners may be possible if they have a good knowledge of dog behavior and training, and are fully aware of the dog’s behavior problems.

To avoid being bitten:

• Be cautious around strange dogs. To avoid being bitten, never approach an unfamiliar dog, especially one who is tied or confined behind a fence or in a car. Do not pet an unfamiliar dog without the owner’s permission, and make sure to let the dog see and sniff you first. Always assume that a dog who does not know you may see you as an intruder or as a threat.
• Never turn your back to a dog and run away. A dog’s natural instinct will be to chase and catch you. Instead, remain motionless, with your hands at your sides. Avoid direct eye contact. When the dog loses interest, slowly back away.
• Do not disturb a dog while she’s sleeping, eating, chewing on a toy, or caring for puppies. Be sure the dog is aware of your presence before you touch the dog - even your own. A startled dog may bite as a reflex action.
• Teach children not to tease or chase dogs.
• Never leave an infant or child alone with a dog.

If you are attacked:

• Put something between you and the dog. Use your coat, purse, book bag, bicycle, or other object to separate yourself from the dog.
• Protect your head. If you are knocked down, cover your head and ears with your hands and curl into a ball. Try not to move or scream.
• Care for any wounds. Wash any wound with soap and water and seek medical attention.
• Report the attack to the police or animal control agency. Try to remember as much as possible about the attack.

The happiness and safety of you, your pet, and the people around you is important to us. By responsibly taking care of your dog and educating other dog owners, you can help prevent dog bites. You can help by supporting dog bite prevention educational programs in schools, and teaching children and adults the proper

n most cases you should not be too concerned about your dog vomiting. If you know that the dog got into something or you changed its diet, you can probably wait 24 hours to see if the vomiting clears up, but only if your dog does not appear lethargic.

You must withhold food for 24 hours and then gradually start a bland diet. If at any time the dog becomes worse please see your veterinarian.

If your dog has been vomiting continually for more than 1 hour or if he has been vomiting on and off for 24 hours, it is severe and you should bring him in to see the doctor.

Vomiting can have lots of causes. Sometimes the cause can be straightforward. An easy indication maybe what was the pet’s last meal.

Sometimes the consistency of the vomit may indicate what’s wrong.

• Undigested food-1.food poisoning 2. Anxiety, 3.simply overeating

• Strong odor-intestinal obstruction.

If no vomiting occurs in 24 hours, then you can try and give some ice cubes followed by water. If no vomiting occurs, then give a small amount of a bland diet. If the dog continues to vomit, call your veterinarian.

What to do for dog vomiting

1. withholding food for 24 hours.

2. Feed a bland diet, consisting of 2/3 rice, sweet potato or oatmeal and 1/3 of the meal should be well cooked non-fatty meats like chicken.

3. Feed only 1/2 of the normal amount of food at a time. Or you can feed several small meals until the vomiting has subsided.

Dog constipation can be a problem for many dogs. There are various causes but most are harmless and can be avoided or treated.

First of all your dog needs exercise. If the dog is lying around all day long then dog constipation is more than likely. Give him less food when he does not move much. This brings us to the second most important aspect, dog food. The wrong food can easily cause dog constipation or other symptoms.

Choose the food which is appropriate for your dog, its age and weight. Not all pet food is made similar. In fact there are some pretty bad pet foods out there. You should look out for quality food and also give him fresh food from time to time. Instead of giving him one large amount of food, feed your dog twice a day instead. For constipation is is recommended you increases the amount of fiber in the food.

Stress can be another reason for dog constipation. If your dog has to live outside then weather conditions, cold or heat can cause constipation. A dog is an animal which does not like to be alone but always near you or with other dogs. This can cause stress too.

Before changing the diet for your dog you should also talk with your animal doctor. He knows much more about pet food, especially when it comes to dogs. He can also make a proper diagnosis which helps to find other reasons for your dogs constipation.

Unfortunately it is not always about food and exercise. Sometimes the problem is bigger. Dog constipation can also be caused by bacteria, parasites or viruses for example. Also poisoned food can be a cause. Here the veterinarian can help as well.

Your dog can not really care about himself so you have to do is. One of the best things to do is to check his excrements on a daily basis. While this does not sound like fun, it gives you important information about your dogs situation. It gives you early warning signs when something is wrong.

The ideal dog poop does not smell much, is moist but can easily be taken away without breaking apart. Any major changes in your dog’s poop can indicate an upcoming disease or - in the best case - are just a sign for you to change your dog’s nutrition.

There are many good dog food recipes which you can try out to make your dog healthier. On my web site I have some tips about this. One final word of warning though. When you choose high quality dog food then supplements should not be necessary. They could cause imbalances and also lead to dog constipation.

There is and easy way to discover a proven training method for your dog . The Sit Stay Fetch Dog Training Guide is a guide created by dog training experts, that teaches dog owners how to train their dog . This helped me train my dog properly.